Like its German name suggests, it’s risky leaving your seat at Gefährlich. Because just like that, in the blink of an eye, this restaurant can transform into a nightclub.
Dining makes way for dancing and a table for two for a turntable for one as the venue welcomes a new dish or two of the day.
But while it’s dangerous by name and nature the other side of midnight, it’s a safe bet if you’re looking to exercise your palate as opposed to your pelvis.
The shorter the better
Menus can be tricky to negotiate, particularly if there are too many options. As I always hear my brother say (the one who became a chef), the shorter the menu, the more confident the restaurant.
It demonstrates the management know what they are doing is the bomb and that you’ll be back before long to try everything else on the menu. Who needs 50 dishes of grey, when you can provide six of undeniable brilliance, like at Gefährlich.
A sensory adventure
But why rush when the aperitifs are this good. I chose the Aperol Spritz, while my accomplice on this foodie mission went for a Cucumber Collins. I think she needed to freshen up a bit.
Like so many dangerous things in life – a femme fatale, a fast Ferrari or a ferocious feline – they titillate all our senses, and this was very much the case with our starter, the mussels, which we both fell in love with from a furtive glance at a neighbouring table.
A mix of the colours of the deep – purple, black, orange, green – its buttery garlic aroma from the accompanying bread and aioli brought us to our knees, and we had not even tasted them yet!
They didn’t disappoint. Swimming in a white sauce based on onions and parsley, the mussels were fresh and delicious. And the aioli added a whole new dimension of taste that you will adore.
Different shades of green adorned my risotto: asparagus, peas and tarragon, truly a work of art, which I washed down with a Les Jamelles, a wonderfully aromatic sauvignon blanc with hints of apples and pears.
Meanwhile my partner opted for the lamb with vegetables – “the most tender lamb” she has ever had, she said. Carrots, asparagus, peas, onions and potatoes covered in a creamy sauce together with the lamb – again an outstanding dish presentation.
It’s like you want to dig in, but hesitate because it seems sacrilegious to ruin such a perfect display. To accompany the dish, she opted for La Colonia, a spicy Argentine malbec.
Chocolate, flowers …
Dessert is always my favourite part of any menu, but at this point we were too full to try both options.
Being chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate mousse with raspberries, whipped cream and salty caramel. And what can I say? Just incredible and again their presentation wowed us.
It was a fitting ending to a meal in which art had converged with cuisine to deliver an unforgettable experience.
While Gefährlich’s indoor setting is laid-back and pleasant – think rustic wooden tables, old portraits and mirrors – we chose to sit outside at the white tables.
Peering through spring flowers, we watched Nørrebro nightlife pass by. Dining and living dangerously, some might say.