Restaurant review: Wholesome vibes and abundant choice – The Post

Restaurant review: Wholesome vibes and abundant choice

Hurry up if you want to experience Geist’s garden! (all photos: restaurantgeist.dk)
September 29th, 2017 6:30 pm| by Philip Savile
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For those looking for an alternative from the arguably overrated waterfront restaurants of Nyhavn and their inflated prices, you needn’t search too far and wide. Restaurant Geist sits a stone’s throw away nestled between a string of stylish restaurants at Kongens Nytorv. For an evening of flavorsome food and an unsurpassed atmosphere, be sure to check this one off the list.

Renowned Danish celebrity chef Bo Bech opened this project in 2011 with an eye to offer diners a traditional a la carte menu as opposed to the masses of fixed tasting menus that feature so regularly at alternative restaurants. This certainly offers a welcome change, although it can be a little overwhelming given the sheer number of choices available along with the inevitable food envy from the person eating next to you.

Style and sophistication
The restaurant concept of Geist radiates style and sophistication. The restaurant itself has to be one of the most exquisitely designed in the area with sleek, modern additions coupled with welcome touches of nature that create a unique monochrome dining area.

The first thing one notices upon entering this welcome addition to the New Nordic family is the friendliness and professionalism of the staff. The genuine helpfulness and relaxed approach provides a comfortable setting for the evening.

Best bet in a lucky dip
The extensive menu enables the diner to choose from a wide variety of options reflecting either personal taste or ambitious picks. An important aspect to note is that the available food, while still reflecting a vibrant and refined palate, is not as unique and perhaps as daring as some of its competitors.

With this in mind there are certain options – including raw zucchini with pistachio & curry and shrimps with tomato & smoked paprika – that unfortunately do come across as a little ordinary and uninspired, but the likes of the dried breast of a young duck with cherries and the must-have dessert of choice, the salted wasabi cream toffee, more than make up for them.

With a menu this size it is impossible to taste everything on offer, which gives the diner a feeling they are entering a lucky dip. We found the best approach is to order three to four separately and share with your partner or friends.

Taste of summer
The wine list features prominently and wine enthusiasts together with casual observers can see that a lot of thought has gone into the sourcing of whites, reds and sparkling wines.

The cool atmosphere and fine surroundings ensured that we stayed long into the night. Luckily for us the restaurant features a long bar with a cocktail list that deserves some recognition all of its own.

Classic whiskey sours and manhattans are of course available, but the idea of visiting a restaurant such as Geist is to experience something different. The complex mixology involved in the creation of the drinks combines seasonal ingredients with premium liquor. Don’t leave without trying the quirkily named lemon on lemon on lemon. Fresh, potent flavours combine to make this the perfect summer drink.