Its fame for fab Italian food is spreading quicker than the Metro
Finding good quality Italian food at an affordable price can be quite a challenge in this town. Luckily, that’s where Famo Metro comes in.
Founded by Fabio Mazzon, the former head chef at the esteemed and Michelin-starred Era Ora, and Morten Kaltoft, the restaurant serves genuine Italian food prepared from scratch for reasonable prices.
Since opening the original Famo over five years ago, their success has grown. They also have a second branch, Famo 51, and most recently Famo Metro, an authentic and unpretentious eatery.
Open for lunch and dinner, Famo Metro offers a set menu that changes daily. From just 250kr, diners can enjoy a small a la carte lunch menu that consists of either two or three courses. For dinner, there is a set five-course menu that is classically Italian in its construction. Serving antipasti (starters), primi (typical pasta dishes), secondo (main courses of meat and fish) and finally dolce (desserts), Famo Metro really is a steal at just 400kr.
Dining on a Wednesday night, we certainly hadn’t expected the restaurant to be full, but indeed as we entered through the glass doors into this small and cosy restaurant, we were instantly surprised. With the place filled to almost capacity, our hungry tummies thanked us for booking.
As we were led to our table, one thing became apparent: like many restaurants in this city, Famo Metro is trying to get as many tables in as possible, regardless of comfort. As we made our way to our small table, it was a game of skill to negotiate your way around patrons and staff.
Once seated, we were greeted by our friendly Italian waiter who, despite his cheery demeanour, wasn’t overly attentive throughout the night. Not speaking a word of Danish, either through choice or necessity, he proceeded to help us with the challenging task, given the size of their drinks menu, of choosing a wine. Upon his recommendation, we settled on a 2008 Pinot Nero Riserva ‘Mazon’, which proved a winner throughout the night.
For the antipasti we enjoyed five small and delicious dishes that were a perfect way to start the night. First off, we had wonderfully fresh artichoke sticks with parmesan cheese and prosciutto. Following on, we ate the succulently soft monkfish served with sweet chard and fresh chili. Arriving in quick succession, the oven-baked peppers with tuna and tomato paste sauce were popular among my male companions, whilst we ladies couldn’t get enough of the red beetroot salad, served with pine nuts and Pecorino cheese, and the thinly sliced veal, served with balsamico and salsa Valletta.
Moving onto the primi dishes, our expectations were high and fortunately Famo Metro didn’t disappoint. A heartwarming dish, the Ribollita – a classic soup from Toscana made with borlotti and cannellini beans, black cabbage and Italian bread – made you feel as if you were actually in Italy. Ribollita, which means ‘reboiled’, is part of a food tradition in Toscana where soup is served with bread in it, which when rewarmed the next day allows the ingredients to become more powerful. Afterwards, we devoured homemade spaghetti with rabbit ragú and fennel flower. Having never before eaten rabbit with spaghetti, I was initially hesitant, but after the first mouthful all doubts were gone.
For our secondo, or main dish, we ate oven-baked guinea fowl marinated with lemon, white wine and tomatoes served with sautéed costa (a bitter Italian vegetable). Whilst the meat was moist and the overall taste enjoyable, it did seem to lack any real flavour.
Finishing off our Italian discovery was a freshly baked Crostata with baked plums and mascarpone cream. Not usually one for sweets, I was hooked from the first mouthful and am looking forward to trying to emulate it at home.
Øster Søgade 114, Cph Ø;
Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 & 18:00-24:00
Top Dish: Monkfish
Price Range: 2-3 course lunch 250kr; 5 course dinner 400kr; www.famo.dk/famometro