SUN: 16º/9º MON: 19º/6º
Suicide is painless, but before you die you must try MASH
Forget the American television series from the 1970s and everybody’s most popular way of eating potatoes. The most recent ‘MASH’ is the Modern American Steakhouse, a sophisticated American style restaurant with a twist of Danish informal dining. Run by the same promising trio who are behind the Japanese-inspired restaurant Umami and French eatery Le Sommelier, MASH offers what may be the best steaks in town. With a central location, MASH sees many tourists and internationals as well as prominent Danes.
A red flesh colour dominates the room upon entering MASH Steakhouse, rising to meet the butcher shop-style white tiled high ceilings. Deep red leather booths fill the large dining area in a classic yet stylish American diner fashion. To top it off, several different cuts of meat hang on display in decorative coolers, setting the proper scene for the ultimate steak experience.
Assistant manager Mette Mynderup told InOut that owner Jesper Boelskifte wanted MASH to be an overarching concept – with high quality food served in an authentic slaughterhouse atmosphere, inspired by the great steakhouses of New York. Together with fellow sommelier Erik Gemal and head chef Francis Cardenau, Boelskifte has successfully done just that.
Upon arriving, friendly staff members took our coats and immediately showed us to our table. For a Sunday evening, the restaurant was filled with a mix of large groups, couples and a family celebrating a youngster’s birthday, adorning the table with Danish flags. After getting comfortable in our oversized booth, a waiter came for our drink orders and to offer his advice about the menu. Little did we know that when we came for a dinner, we would also be treated to an introductory lesson to different types of steaks and how they are prepared - right down to how the cattle is fed in order to ensure the highest quality taste of the meat.
After Steak 101 ended and all of our questions were answered, my cohort and I opted to start the meal by sharing the scallop chowder that arrived piping hot and in a timely fashion. While the dish may be a bit small for two people, the amount of food that arrived for us later made up for the small portion early on – and the warm soup was spot on to pair with a chilly December evening.
Moments before the main course arrived, our starters were placed in front of us. The option to mix-and-match the side dishes allows guests to creatively piece together their perfect meal. You can choose your preferred style of sauce, standard American sides like chilli fries and onion rings (45kr each), and the accompanying vegetables (also 45kr each). My dining partner and I opted to share the creamy spinach and thickly cut onion rings, both finely prepared. Do not fret if you don’t eat beef – MASH also serves French corn-fed chicken, fish, and lobster while vegetarians can opt for an abundance of delectable vegetables and sides.
The choices for steaks included selections of Danish dry-aged cuts as well as American and Canadian selections. A big steak for a small girl, the 400 grams of meat were the darkest shade of brown on the outside and light pink on the inside. When cut, the steak oozed fragrant juices that blended finely with the rich and bold bearnaise sauce I smothered the meat in. Bursting with flavour, especially towards the fatty bits, the steak excelled in taste. Served on a plain white cafeteria-style plate, the understated presentation didn’t mean a lack in quality.
With an entire basement floor largely in part dedicated to a wine cellar, there is an abundance of wines for diners to pair with their meals. Staying true to the North American theme, the extensive wine list includes many options from that region – not just California but also other areas in North and South America like Chile.
As a final word of advice, make sure you save room for dessert. This time around, my dining partner and I chose not to share and each ordered a slice of cheesecake with strawberry and sorbet – one of the best decisions of the night as it was smooth, creamy and absolutely delicious.
Bredgade 20, Cph K;
Open: lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, dinner Sun-Wed 17:30-22:00, Thu-Sat 17:30-23:00;
Top Dish: Wagyu steak
Price Range: main course 145-425kr;
3313 9300, www.mashsteak.dk