CPH Post


Princess Leia's hair bun of pork would even stuff Jabba the Hut

(Photo: Simon Schultz /simonschultz.dk)

December 2, 2013

by Sofie Gravers Jacobsen

Alma is surprisingly packed for a Thursday evening. Once you are served, you understand why.  
The interior is unpretentious and relaxed – but it still looks like they definitely know what they are doing. The lighting and furniture is a good mix of Tom Dixon lamps, vintage wooden tables and odd pairs of chairs.

The owners describe Alma as a meeting place for families, young people and locals. We were there for a business dinner and didn’t feel out of place either. But if you did, Alma can accomodate as it has quite a few smaller rooms – where you will still be aware of the other guests, but where you can also have a little bit of privacy.

A minor drawback was that our table was placed right next to the kitchen. We weren’t too bothered by the noise from the kitchen, but we were rather bothered by the smell. It wasn’t the delicious smell of food, but rather a fairly potent smell of detergent. Exactly the kind, in fact, that takes you back to the smell of supposedly newly-washed floors at your school. If they had bothered to close the door, this might have helped, but it was kept open – so we were graced with this vile smell the whole evening.

The service, though, was attentive and accommodating. Since we were a large group, we had pre-ordered, but they were flexible enough to change some of our orders when some of us changed our minds.

Most of us went for a starter version of their lunch plate. This turned out to be almost a meal in itself – and a very good one at that. Although the Herb-marinated herring with pickled red onions and horseradish cream was perhaps a bit too experimental – I would hazard a guess that herring doesn’t work too well with an anise taste to it.

Their Smoked shrimps with dill mayo and lemon was delicious though, and their two pork dishes – Terrine of pork shank and foie gras with green plums and Pepper-dried pork breast with walnuts – both worked well. Though it did seem a bit premature to serve cheese as a starter, it was justified once we tried their ‘Vesterhavs’ cheese with buckthorn. This was by far the best bit on the plate. So for just 85 kroner, this was just about enough to make you full.

We were in it for the long haul though. So for our main course we all had the Porchetta – pork neck with rosemary, dried apples, garlic, artichokes and crushed potatoes (175kr).

To call it anything but a massive serving is an understatement. This was a Princess Leia hair bun size serving of pork. It was really tender though – and it wasn’t for lack of trying or more importantly the quality of it – that we were unable to finish it.

Thinking that their ‘crushed potatoes’ would probably just be a fancy word for mashed potatoes, we didn’t think this was meant to be taken literally as they were indeed crushed, as we were with disappointment. This could have been a bit boring, but the combination of garlic, apples, artichokes and sauce helped to make this a delicious main course.

Even the ardent eaters among us were so full that by the time we were asked if we wanted dessert, we had to decline and go for another round of beer. To go with our food most of us had opted for beer – of which they had a small but good enough selection.

All in all, Café Alma is definitely worth the trip across the water even if you are not a local Islands Brygge resident.

Cafe Alma
Isafjordsgade 5-7, Cph S
3254 3204
Open: Mon- Thu 10:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-00:00
Cuisine: Danish
Top Dish: Vesterhavs cheese off the lunch plate  
Price Range: mains 145-195kr

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