Dine for me Argentina: once seated, we’ll never leave you

Eva Perón (aka Evita) fought for justice for the rights of the poor. But while her battle never ends, the search for the perfect steak house experience just did.

This new Argentinian steak house has managed to bring a perfect mix of exclusivity and street patina all the way from South America to Copenhagen K.

We enter the restaurant a little early. The place is stunning in a voluptuous style you might’ve found in a classy ‘40s restaurant in Argentina – think massive chandeliers and cow-skin couches. Our table is ready, but the cozy ambiance by the bar, and a little door that opens into the street, begs us to have a couple of mojitos before eating. We suck down two perfectly mixed glasses while enjoying a couple of blissful minutes of the subtle and beautiful Latin music that oozes from the walls by the bar. Now we are ready.

No table has ever spelled S-T-E-A-K as much as the table at Evita Peron. In front of the medieval-style metal plate lies a knife – well, not just a knife, but an ivory-handled, super-sharp instrument that looks like it was designed to be the trusted street companion of a tango dancing nobleman. “Let me cut meat for you, sire,” it seems to whisper. The heavy cutlery is elegantly wrapped in a custom-made leather casing, which – of course – is embroidered with the initials of the restaurant.

For starters we choose the Tuna Ceviche and the Empanada Trio. To accompany our starters we are suggested two glasses of the elegant 2009/Sancerre ‘Clos de Bouffants’ from the Loire district. With a subtle hint of elderberry and gooseberry, this fantastic wine elevates the already delicious starters to new heights.

I’ve heard that in ‘the old days’ the waiter was the hardest and most respected position in the restaurant. Only after years of being a chef could one qualify to become a waiter, since the waiter has to know both the food and the wine better than anyone else, and on top of that has to be an excellent judge of character to be able to decide which meal and wine to recommend to which guest – an art form of infinite depths. Well, Evita Peron has a waiter like that. I didn’t catch his name – I don’t know if he has one or if it has been washed away by the years and years this man has spent studying the patterns of taste, human psychology and service – but like a humble all-knowing magician, he firmly and respectfully suggested and adjusted our orders through the evening, displaying patience and expertise beyond anything I’ve seen. In itself, it’s a reason to visit Evita Peron.

After careful consultation and evaluation of our desires, we decide that I should go for the American 400 gram rib-eye medium rare, accompanied by the Evita Peron-style mashed potatoes and Madagascar pepper sauce. He would not normally recommend the pepper sauce to just anyone, but since I insist that I cannot be intimidated by his promise that it’s “too spicy for most people”, he deems me worthy. My date orders the 250 gram Argetinian tenderloin with French fries and béarnaise sauce. At this point our faith in the waiter is so strong that we don’t even look at the wine list, but simply look at him and raise our brows as if to say: “What would you get?” Without hesitation he receives our telepathic request and answers: “The 2008 Petit Fleur de Lindaflor, Bodega Monteviejo of the Mendoza region in Argentina.”

He is right about everything. My 400 grams of bloody USA is perfect for my taste and the pepper sauce is indeed only for people who think it impossible for a burning sensation to affect a meal poorly, but the crescendo that brings it all together is the bottle of 2008 Argentinian blood – the perfect choice. In an ecstasy of meat and wine we float through the rest of the meal.

When we land again, our plates have been replaced with spectacular desserts, and the sublime performance of a live jazz band gives the room an amber glow. While enjoying the music and our Crème brûle and Hazelnut mousse accompanied by two Cortados and two glasses of Pedro Ximenes sherry – Oxford 1970 (at this point served without consultation even needed), we have already begun dreaming about our hasty return to Evita Perón.

Evita Peron
Studiestræde 69, 1455 Cph K; 3393 9955  
Open: Mon-Thu 17:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 17:00-02:00
Cuisine: steakhouse
Top Dish: any of the steaks
Price Range: steaks 250-375 kr,
www.evitaperon.dk




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