After many late recording sessions in Frederiksberg, I often found myself walking down Falkoner Alle at night.

I would notice a particular shop front with all its lights on – much later than I would have assumed were regular hours for any business in the area.

I’d only seen this outlet from afar, but could deduce from the lack of a smoky haze through the windows that it was not an ill-frequented bodega, or, by a glance of my watch, an extra eager baker. 

But being so fatigued when I passed it, my curiosity was always dampened enough to dissuade further investigation. 

Until one day, as luck would have it, I was walking on the opposite side of the road – the same side as this illuminated enigma of an establishment.

Finally, the question would be answered. What was this place?

As I drew near, I could see many tables and chairs inside. “Ah, a late night cafe perhaps?” I thought.

I drew closer still. I saw small wooden sculptures. “Maybe an arts and craft centre?”

I was almost there. I could see patterns on a table. I could see patterns on all the tables!?

And then, as I stared in the shop front window with unabashed wonder, the pieces all fell into place. 

Those night hawks I passed so many times before, were burning the midnight oil… playing chess. 

And given Denmark’s history with the game, it was not surprising. Anyone with a surface knowledge of chess will have heard of Magnus Carlsen – the Norwegian child prodigy who has helped give chess a slick new look.

Or maybe they know a bit about the days when chess was synonymous with the cold war, and the likes of Bobby Fisher and Boris Spassky were household names. 

But before Carlsen and behind Fisher (literally in second place) was Bent Larsen. 

Born in Thisted, North Jutland in 1935, Bent would grow up to become a chess GrandMaster, noted for his imaginative and unorthodox playing style.

Many books were written about his games and achievements. He is considered by many in the chess community to be one of the all time greats. 

Alas, his contributions to the game were largely overshadowed by his peers and by the events around him.  Especially Bobby Fisher’s erratic antics and the international soft-power tinge the game had at the time.

So Bent Larsen’s legacy fell largely to the wayside. 

But not for those Danes young and old alike, who frequent the many chess schools and clubs (like Copenhagen Chess in Frederiksberg) across the city. 

These bastions for the Game of Kings are always busy when I pass them, night or day. Maybe they’re looking for the next Bent Larsen. Or are they just building friendships across 64 tiles?

Whatever it is, there’s a reason their lights are on late at night. These lighthouses of logic and strategy. It’s because Denmark has a passion for chess. 

So the next time the Tour de France is in town or the Handball finals are on the TV, spare a thought for the chess players.