The benchmark is high for restaurants in Denmark. Copenhagen is a city with food virtually ingrained in its DNA, and competing with the many Michelin restaurants can, at times, seem like mission impossible.
Yet, there are few dining experiences in Copenhagen that trump an evening at Höst. The restaurant is faultless: a little slice of Nordic magic amongst a city brimming with award-winning gastronomical experiences.
Raw, rustic design
Inspired by the softness and serenity of rural Scandinavia, Hösts’ design and concept was devised by Cofoco in close collaboration with Norm architects and
world-renowned design company Menu.
Scooping up a number of awards such as the ‘World’s Best-Designed Restaurant’ at the 2013 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards, Höst effortlessly combines Scandinavia’s lust for clean lines and minimalistic design with its own signature style. It takes a raw, rustic approach to Nordic simplicity, creating an aura of understated lass that is hard to disapprove of.
Heavy wooden furniture, a myriad of grey concrete and soft, dim lighting all contribute to the restaurant’s rustic feel. Chairs are adorned with soft, animal hide, and classic Norm silverware enhances the earthy table settings.
Split across two floors, the restaurant weaves amongst a maze of different rooms: from the Garden Room to the Barn and the Basement, each room an elegant depiction of Nordic nature and simplicity.
This is a place where it profits to pay attention to the small things; the detail is truly impeccable.
Menu for all seasons
Upon arrival, our waiter for the evening, Steffi, greeted us with a friendly smile and a glass of champagne and showed us to our seats in the Garden Room.
The menu, carefully curated by head chef Jonas Christensen, offers elegant New Nordic cuisine strongly influenced by the seasons and handcrafted with an abundance of raw ingredients.
Yet, no matter the season, Höst offers a delectable choice of dinner options – a selection of dishes that can either be paired with the standard wine menu or
an upgraded selection of wines.
New Nordic appeal
We decided on the Höst menu – an adventure that included sparkling wine, a three-course fixed meal, wine pairings, coffee and water. My favourite thing about the Höst menu is the handful of ‘surprise’ dishes served between the
courses. All in all, we were served five ‘surprises’, of which each and every one was an exciting revelation and any foodie’s dream come true.
The surprises do little to distract from Höst’s flawless main courses. Our starter was a delicious right-eyed flounder baked in hay ashes with spinach and
parsley purée, crudité of broccoli and an airy blue mussel sauce.
This was perfectly partnered by a 2013 Domaine Jean Collet Chablis.
For our main course, we sampled a slow-cooked pork brisket with pickled and raw beetroot, goat’s cheese and a mustard sauce. It was a mouthwatering combination and was served with a 2011 Rosso di Montepulciano red wine
from Tuscany.
Double desserts
I’d be a fool to complain about having two desserts, but by this stage I was wholly satisfied and slightly concerned I wouldn’t be able to fit in another course. But by the time our dessert – and final ‘surprise’ dish – was placed
in front of us, I knew I would never be able to refuse … even if it meant undoing the top button of my jeans.
First, we were served a delicious junket mousse with a delectable liquorice toffee – an unusual combination, but a genius one.
And then the evening was finished by a sweet dessert wine and a mouth watering ice cream, served with chamomile on a rhubarb purée with a soft maltcake and lemon verbena.
Michelin maybe?
I believe Höst is a restaurant flirting with its first Michelin star. Its sophisticated, yet affordable menu offers an array of different flavours and tasting palates – and its collection of ‘surprise’ dishes are enough to please even the fussiest eater.
Höst’s friendly service is topped only by its stellar menu and wine selection, and I think it’s fair to assume that its’ vast collection of design awards speak for themselves.
Höst Restaurant
Nørre Farimagsgade 41, Cph K; open daily 17:30-24:00; set menu: 295kr, with wine: 575kr; 8993 8409, hoest@cofoco.dk; cofoco.dk/da/restauranter/hoest
