A cock and bull story fitting of one’s favourite brothers

Schooled at Noma, the owners of BROR know the score

Luisa Kyca

Restaurant BROR, like its name suggests, is part of a distinguished family. Two former Noma sous chefs hold the reins and the last Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand – an honour given to just nine other eateries in Copenhagen that recognises those who serve good food for affordable prices.

We visited on a quiet Thursday night. A cosy two-storey establishment in the heart of Copenhagen, we felt immediately welcome by its lovely waiters, warm colours and unshowy attitude.

Oh my testicles!
We opted for the ‘Stor BROR menu’ with wine pairings consisting solely of natural selections. The restaurant wants to educate people about natural wines and make them taste the real flavours – which is kind of heaven for wine lovers and fans of ecological food. Additionally, everything on the menu is local and seasonal.

We started proceedings with a selection of appetisers and a deep-fried surprise. A plate of fried testicles paired with some ‘dick chips’ – yes, it is thinly sliced fried cow’s penis – were served to my plus one, while I enjoyed the vegetarian version: mouthwatering crispy bread with homemade cheese.

P20A web (2)

Victor, one of the aforementioned co-owners of BROR, was eager to know if we enjoyed the starter, approaching us with a friendly smile and a question not often heard outside a movie set: “How is it going with the dick?”

Laid-back fine dining
Victor met Sam, the other co-founder, while they were sous chefs at Noma for four years. Afterwards they decided to open a restaurant together, but were certain they would do everything their own way.

“We didn’t want to have any big money-man behind us telling us what to do, so we saved up a lot and started completely from scratch,” explained Victor.
Looking around, that’s probably why all the furniture is second-hand and the cutlery a wild mix, creating an incredible fusion of high-end cuisine in a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere.

Codfather’s promise
Our second course was a whole cooked cod’s head served with rye bread and horseradish. After getting over our initial shock and obligatory Godfather reference, we were promised we could eat everything besides the bones, and the cheeks were duly delicious. This adventure was then followed by some more cod, this time a cured version served with baby corn, which was simple but amazing.

Next up was my favourite dish of the evening: a taste explosion that left my stomach screaming for more. While I delighted in my fried squid served with crispy broccoli, chanterelles and seeds, the same dish was delivered to my meat-eating partner-in-crime, but with veal tongue. We were blown away.

P20A web (1)

A stunning climax
One thing I learned that night: one has to take dessert seriously. We were treated to two desserts that took us to the sky and back. The plum compote with caramelised butter and rosemary, followed by a raspberry sorbet served on shortbread with berries and cream, combined with a delicious dessert wine, provided the perfect climax to what had been such a tasteful evening.

P20A (5) web

We left with three simple lessons learnt: desserts are important, be prepared to eat whatever arrives on your plate, and as annoying as brothers can be, we’re wiser for their guidance!

TOP STORIES

  • Bestselling author of ‘The Year of Living Danishly’ Helen Russell on why she moved back to the UK after 12 years

    Bestselling author of ‘The Year of Living Danishly’ Helen Russell on why she moved back to the UK after 12 years

    After more than a decade living in Denmark, Russell shares why she made the move, how she’s coping, what she already misses, and the exciting new projects she’s working on. “It’s been a very tough decision. I love Denmark, and it will always hold a special place in my heart,” she says.

  • Denmark launches first AI supercomputer

    Denmark launches first AI supercomputer

    The new Gefion AI supercomputer is one of the world’s fastest and will accelerate research and provide new opportunities in Danish academia and industry.

  • Navigating big love, big moves and big feelings

    Navigating big love, big moves and big feelings

    Experts believe it takes seven years to move into a new culture, according to leading Danish psychologist Jette Simon and therapist Vibeke Hartkorn. For expat couples, the challenges of starting a new life together in Denmark can put pressure on relationships, but emotions-focused therapy can help.

  • More and more Danes are working after retirement age

    More and more Danes are working after retirement age

    Politicians debate a lot these days about when you can retire. The reality shows that an increasing number of Danes like to work, even if they can withdraw from the labor market. Financial incentives help.

  • Environmental activist fears death in prison if extradited to Japan

    Environmental activist fears death in prison if extradited to Japan

    Canadian-born environmental activist Paul Watson has been in prison in Greenland for almost 100 days awaiting an extradition decision for a 14-year-old offence against a Japanese whaling vessel that he calls a “minor misdemeanor”. The 73-year-old had previously passed through Ireland, Switzerland, Monaco, France and the USA without trouble, before Greenlandic police arrested him in July.

  • Denmark too slow to ease recruitment rules for non-EU service workers, say industry associations

    Denmark too slow to ease recruitment rules for non-EU service workers, say industry associations

    When the Danish government in January presented the first of its schemes to make it easier to recruit foreign labour from outside the EU, it was hailed by the healthcare and service sectors as a timely and important policy shift. But while healthcare changes have been forthcoming, the service sector is still struggling, say the directors of the industry association Dansk Industri and one of the country’s largest private employers ISS.

Connect club

Connect Club is your gateway to a vibrant programme of events and an international community in Denmark.

Sign up here

Career

  • Come and join us at Citizens Days!

    Come and join us at Citizens Days!

    On Friday 27 and Saturday 28 of September, The Copenhagen Post will be at International Citizen Days in Øksnehallen on Vesterbro, Copenhagen. Admission is free and thousands of internationals are expected to attend

  • Diversifying the Nordics: How a Nigerian economist became a beacon for inclusivity in Scandinavia

    Diversifying the Nordics: How a Nigerian economist became a beacon for inclusivity in Scandinavia

    Chisom Udeze, the founder of Diversify – a global organization that works at the intersection of inclusion, democracy, freedom, climate sustainability, justice, and belonging – shares how struggling to find a community in Norway motivated her to build a Nordic-wide professional network. We also hear from Dr. Poornima Luthra, Associate Professor at CBS, about how to address bias in the workplace.

  • Lolland Municipality launches support package for accompanying spouses

    Lolland Municipality launches support package for accompanying spouses

    Lolland Municipality, home to Denmark’s largest infrastructure project – the Fehmarnbelt tunnel connection to Germany – has launched a new jobseeker support package for the accompanying partners of international employees in the area. The job-to-partner package offers free tailored sessions on finding a job and starting a personal business.

Want to advertise your job with CPH Post?

Contact us

Jobs