Immediately inviting, in ambient lighting we dined delightedly

Biking through the cold autumn air, nothing looked more enticing than the ambient glow coming from the large French doors of what appeared to be a quaint, little establishment on Værnedamsvej.

Just from seeing the few people huddled outside on the rustic wooden benches, sinking glasses of wine and smoking, Falernum was immediately charming.

The modern European style interior was warm and relaxed. Its open-plan space, sporting an abundance of raw timber and illuminated by low-hanging bulbs and candlelight, had an elegant yet humble décor thanks to mismatching French-country style tables and chairs positioned snugly together, fresh flowers perched in old wine bottles and large vintage maps hanging on the walls.

We started the evening with a generous glass of champagne – not my usual opening act to dinner on a Monday evening, but it seemed quite fitting with the jovial mood of the place, increased by the dapper, loudly laughing couples seated next to us.

The tapas-style menu was quite short and sweet, just as it should be, yet it was still a difficult feat to choose just a few options from the enticing list. It was recommended that we break up our choices into two ‘courses’, so we opted for the Salmon with dill and apples and the Charcuterie – a platter of mixed cured meats to start.

The second course or main, was the Hake with Jerusalem artichokes – a lighter, fresh dish with a basil pesto – followed by the more intensely flavoured Monkfish with a red wine sauce and, last but certainly not least, the Tender braised lamb breast with beetroot and rosemary. They were put together with great finesse and, needless to say, were absolutely delicious. Even the accompaniment of homemade bread with a crisp salted crust proved to be insanely addictive. The dishes were pleasantly substantial for small portions, with about two to three dishes per person doing the trick, and almost all of them were brought to our table by the chefs themselves, as they took the time to carefully explain to us the details of their culinary creations.

As expected, the beverage list was quite extensive, offering something to quench every thirst. Whether you’re looking for some simple suds or a fancy flute of something – Falernum has got you covered.

As it’s a ‘wine-bar’, you’re generally encouraged to experiment and try a few of the fine drops on offer. Despite his best attempts, the sommelier wasn’t successful in coercing me to move away from my standard glass of red, but we settled somewhere in the middle on a glass of light ‘Pinot Noir’. However, if you find yourself at the charming establishment, I would suggest you try something new. After all, there are certainly plenty of options to choose from,
and there’s even a generous bar space with plenty of room to perch yourself up on a stool and peruse the incredibly vast collection of wines – perfect for those just up for a drink or three.

After an incredibly delicious meal and just enough red wine to induce the comforting thought of bedtime, we asked for quick coffee and decided to call it a night … That is, until our lust for chocolate kicked in before we could muster the courage to brave the cold again. We went with both options on offer, including the Chocolate mousse with quince chutney, an unusual but winning combination, and the Berry compote with vanilla cream served in a filo pastry bowl. Now with our glasses empty and feeling like we had sufficiently overdone it, we reluctantly made the trip home.

Falernum, one of six establishments owned by ‘wine-pusher’ Kenn Husted, is renowned around town for great food, exceptional wine and a winning atmosphere. The evening was highly anticipated and it was no surprise that Falernum lived up to its expectations and more.


Værnedamsvej 16, Cph V,

3322 3089,

Open: Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00

Cuisine: Modern European

Top Dish: Braised lamb breast with beetroot and rosemary  

Price Range: dishes 65-125kr

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