Metropolitan magpie serves up a steal from the kiwis

The newly-opened Wild Kiwi Pies in Valby serves a mean pastry

Daniel Deleuran

Nobody knows for certain the origins of the word ‘pie’, but the best bet appears to be that it stems from the magpie sometime in the 14th century.

The bird is well known for acquiring miscellaneous objects in much the same way early pies were a jumble of meat and vegetables placed under a pastry cover – you never really knew what you were going to get (after all, Sweeny Todd didn’t do recipes).

And it could be said that the new Valby eatery Wild Kiwi Pies is a miscellaneous object recently acquired by the magpie that is culturally-diverse Copenhagen.

Two things are for certain: it is named after a bird and its prices are a steal!

A huntsman’s never hungry
So, cards on the table time; I have never knowingly eaten pie in my life – and definitely not meat versions such as the ones served by Wild Kiwi Pies. But while I was tentative at first, once the owner and chef Stu Thrush had explained the concept, I was eager to try one.

I followed the chef’s recommendation and had their Huntsman pie containing New Zealand beef steak and cheddar cheese. Penetrating the pastry, I noticed it had a pleasing consistency, and the filling didn’t disappoint either. Served in a peppercorn sauce, it was the kind of meat that melts in your mouth. Accompanied by a fresh and tasty salad, I couldn’t have asked for more.

And that is barely the tip of the iceberg (excuse the poor lettuce pun). The menu has eight other signature pies featuring all kinds of meats, cheese and vegetables, and also other pastry dishes, such as their pork, leek and sage sausage roll (just 29kr).

Rich in culture too
The food is only half the experience. The atmosphere generated by the charismatic Thrush and his employees was astounding. I felt truly welcome to enjoy my pie in good company.

And then to see them treat every other customer in the exact same way was extremely refreshing. Given that pies are something of a novelty in Denmark, it’s important they’re able to advise the customers and ascertain which type they might enjoy the most.

Eating the pie is both a culinary and cultural experience. Adorning one wall are representations of the traditional Maori Hei-tiki, while another features New Zealand’s world-famous kiwi birds. Huge windows provide plenty of natural lighting and the relaxed setting works beautifully to make the locale feel local to the concept’s origins and inviting.

Little dough required
If you’re a tad timid about the idea of a meat pie, or are a vegetarian, don’t worry – you’re well catered for as the store also serves non-meat options and fruit pies. And they won’t cost you a fair crust, even though Wild Kiwi Pies is committed to using solely organic ingredients.

For only 49 kroner, I was treated to what I would consider a full meal. Don’t let the size of the pies fool you, as they are definitely big enough to leave you with a more than satisfied stomach. And besides, what’s stopping you buying two or three more and freezing them for later
consumption.

 

WILD KIWI PIES
Toftegårds Allé 43, Valby; open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00; all pies: 49kr, drinks 15-25kr; wildkiwipies.com

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