Brunch Review: Worth knocking down walls for

There is no shortage of cafes in Copenhagen, but Europa 1989 easily rises above the fray, distinguishing itself as one of the best places in Denmark to start your day.

Located in Amagertorv, the bustling central square of Strøget, the café is surrounded by high-end stores such as Louis Vuitton and Hermes, giving the location an air of luxury. The many mild mornings of summer in Denmark allow café-goers to sit outside where they can sip on their coffee and admire the pedestrian heartbeat of Copenhagen.

Coffee and champagne
The coffee is, on its own, enough to distinguish the café. The cappuccino is not only nice to look at, with its flowered foam top, but it is also impossibly rich, striking the perfect balance between bitter and creamy. The cappuccino is joined in its excellence by the café’s Americano – both are works of coffee art.

If you do not subscribe to coffee culture, there are a number of different options to turn to. Four different types of champagne are available, as well as mimosas and ‘Bloody Marys’. The Danes don’t hesitate to begin drinking early and often, but if you find yourself averse to a midday hangover or hair of the dog, the café also offers orange and apple juice.

A brunch to remember
Among the highlights on the breakfast menu are an eggs Benedict and muesli with yoghurt, berries and almonds. However, if one wants a really hearty breakfast, it is best to turn to the brunch menu.

At my last visit to Europe 1989, I tried the brunch spread. It included skyr with fresh berries and maple syrup, cheese and quince marmalade, a mini omelette with bacon, Karl Johan mushrooms and lingonberries, a Nordic hotdog with mustard and glazed onions, smoked salmon with smoked cheese cream and rye crackers, and fresh fruit.

The length of that sentence is reflective of the true strength of the brunch spread. Big enough to share between two, the spread offers a variety of tastes and textures that give a glimpse into a true Danish breakfast.

Salty and sweet
The skyr with berries and maple syrup is sweet and simple – nothing unusual, but enjoyable nonetheless. The true adventures are found in the mini omelette and Nordic hotdog. The omelette combines bacon and cranberries – a truly unique combination that changed the way I want to make omelettes at home.

Similarly, the Nordic hotdog is spectacular and innovative. Normally I would shrink from having a hotdog first thing in the morning, but this particular sausage made me reconsider my traditional brunch standards.

Finally, I recommend finishing the meal with the fresh fruit—the sweetness of the bowl offers the perfect conclusion to a meal that was bursting with savoury richness.

Good things come to those who wait for walls to fall down (photo: Anna Juul)

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