The front of Les Trois Cochons is humble and unassuming. Upon entering, the rough and tumble of the street is muted by the voice of Edit Piaf and other classics of French music coming gently from the speakers, and you are enveloped by the cosy atmosphere. The interior is well-designed, and the walls and furniture underline the simple elegance of this restaurant. But it’s just about the food and the wine, it’s about the complete experience of the French-inspired theme that Les Trois Cochons delivers in a fantastic manner. The only thing I could possibly complain about was a party of about 20 people who drowned out the music with their conversation – which is no complaint at all.
Some sparkling white wine began our evening and helped us unwind while we waited for the food, along with an aperitif: the house ‘Leverpostej’ with plums poached in red wine with spices (cinnamon, vanilla, aniseed). They were incredibly smooth and delicious. And as we enjoyed the bubbles and the plums, munching on bread with the pâté, we took in the dimly-lit restaurant and relaxed to the sounds of French golden oldies.
And that was just the beginning. Everything else, the crème de la crème, comes in threes. The starters, the main and even – oh my taste buds! – the desserts. It should be mentioned that the whole meal is “shared” by the table, so, especially with the main, it’s good to agree beforehand what you’d prefer. A pan filled with the meal of your choice is put on the table, and you then transfer it to your own plate, depending on how much you want. It’s a clever ‘Goldilocks’ idea that avoids over and understuffing the patrons, by allowing them to pick the amount of food they want to eat.
The starters and desserts are the same for all guests; the only flexible item on the menu is the main course, which can be chosen from the three currently available: a choice of fish, chicken or beef (the mains change, of course, more or less monthly). They are all accompanied by mashed potatoes (swimming in melted butter) and French beans. I had the pleasure of tasting the Rooster baked with truffles and roasted parsnips in dark sauce, sprinkled with parsley. It was full of flavours and textures that mixed well together – the soft, slightly sweet chicken, the crunchy beans and the buttery potatoes. That’s one mouth-watering, fantastic meal in itself, accompanied by a glass of light, red Morgon wine.
Wine is also excellent with the starters and desserts, as well as with a cheese plate (three different French cheeses, which can be purchased separately for 75 kroner).
The three starters were varied but complemented each other well in terms of flavours. The cooks at Les Trois Cochons really are extravagant and go all the way to create delicious food. Just imagine: Tiny fish cutlets with radish, anchovies and capers, Baby potatoes in mayonnaise on a bed of fresh spinach leaves sprinkled with potato crisps, and a Rabbit riette with pickles and salad in a sauce of sharp mustard. All of this was washed down with white wine. See, even the starter was incredible. The colours, textures and, first and foremost, the taste was great. It was amazing, but not overwhelming, preparing the taste buds for the treat that is the main course. It’s no surprise, therefore, as to why Les Trois Cochons is a renowned restaurant that requires booking way in advance.
Since no proper meal can end without a dessert, this French restaurant offers three fantastic, French, sweet afters: Chocolate mousse with white chocolate cookies; a Raspberry sorbet with (Italian, gasp!) meringue that just explodes with sharp freshness; and last, but definitely not least Crème brûlée. It was simply creamy heaven: crisp on the top, but so delicate under that it just melted in the mouth.
Les Trois Cochons is without a question a brilliant place for any food-lover. It has a great idea behind it, and an atmosphere that allows a bit of relaxed forgetfulness and gets you positively drunk with food.
Les Trois Cochons
Værnedamsvej 10, 1619 Cph V;
3331 7055; ltc@cofoco.dk;
Open: Lunch: Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 Dinner: Mon-Sun 17:30-24:00;
Cuisine: French
Top Dish: Rooster
Price Range: 3-course menu 295kr
www.cofoco.dk/ltc
