Proof the grass will never grow under Cofoco’s feet

There is a new restaurant in town and we like it a lot. Just when you thought serial restaurateurs Cofoco could do no more, they opened Väkst – a cosy little greenhouse-restaurant hybrid right in the heart of the city centre. With its earthy menu and incandescent lighting, it is Copenhagen’s own answer to a secret garden: a paradise of assorted flora sprouting from all directions.

Never stops progressing
Väkst – previously Cofoco’s Work in Progress – is tucked away down pastel-painted Sankt Peders Stræde. Opened as a sister restaurant to multi-award winning Höst, it is only natural to expect a certain standard of excellence from its gastronomic counterpart.

When I finally got around to paying it a visit, I was not disappointed. Inspired by the softness and serenity of an organic garden, Väkst (which translates as ‘growth’) feels relaxed and luxe in equal doses. Designed by Genbyg – a studio and retailer that specialises in recycled building materials – it is undeniably Nordic and has a rustic charm that is hard not to love. At the heart of the two-storey restaurant is a greenhouse packed with suspended plant pots. Most of the furniture is sourced second-hand, and the provided by old milk cans transformed into pendants.

The restaurant’s menu, curated by chef Jonas Christensen, mirrors the interior’s emphasis on greens. Vegetables of the season take priority, while fresh, high-quality ingredients are artistically prepared and served in abundance.

Ultimate indulgence
We placed our trust in our friendly waiter and followed his epicurean suggestions for the evening. For starters, we shared the squid and baked kohlrabi in a mussel sauce – a delicious dish exuding flavour. Served with a glass of sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne, it was the ultimate indulgence.

For our main course, I had the grilled trout with broccoli, thyme and hazelnut sauce, while my friend had the beef tenderloin with white asparagus, tarragon and pepper sauce. If there is one thing you can praise Cofoco for, it is their attention to detail. Plated up on a beautiful ceramic saucer, there is very little I could fault. The trout, in particular, was our favourite.

Full of surprises
One of my favourite aspects of the menu was the handful of ‘surprise’ dishes served between the courses. All in all, we were served three ‘surprises’ – each and every one an exciting revelation for our taste buds.

For dessert, we followed our waiter’s recommendations and ordered the rhubarb ice cream with white chocolate, caramel cream and crumble. Danish summer is synonymous with rhubarb, so it seemed an obvious choice. Note: always leave room for dessert as the cheese with gooseberry compote is also a must-try.

Immersed and impressed
Sophisticated affordability is the hallmark of Cofoco’s appeal, and Väkst does little to take away from this. As always, the entire experience was a total dream, without the hefty bill. The wines were modern, light and European. The service was impeccable.

At Väkst, it’s all about immersing diners in the experience, combining interesting flavours with the freshest produce. You’ll want to try every last item on the menu – that much, I can promise.




  • Danish Intelligence Service: Threat from Russia has intensified

    Danish Intelligence Service: Threat from Russia has intensified

    In the internal Danish waters, Russia will be able to attack underwater infrastructure from all types of vessels. The target could be cables with data, electricity and gas, assesses the Danish Defense Intelligence Service

  • Denmark to explore screening citizenship applicants for anti-democratic sentiments

    Denmark to explore screening citizenship applicants for anti-democratic sentiments

    A few weeks after Alex Vanopslagh’s comments about “right values,” the government announced that an expert committee would be established to examine the feasibility of screening citizenship applicants for anti-democratic attitudes.

  • The Future Copenhagen

    The Future Copenhagen

    The municipality plan encompasses building 40,000 houses by 2036 in order to help drive real estate prices down. But this is not the only huge project that will change the shape of the city: Lynetteholmen, M5 metro line, the Eastern Ring Road, and Jernbanebyen will transform Copenhagen into something different from what we know today

  • It’s not you: winter depression is affecting many people

    It’s not you: winter depression is affecting many people

    Many people in Denmark are facing hard times marked by sadness, anxiety, and apathy. It’s called winter depression, and it’s a widespread phenomenon during the cold months in Nordic countries.

  • Crime rates are rising, but people are safer

    Crime rates are rising, but people are safer

    Crime in Denmark is increasing for the second consecutive year, but it is more focused on property, while people appear to be safer than before. Over the past year, there were fewer incidents of violence

  • Novo Nordisk invests 8.5 billion DKK in new Odense facility

    Novo Nordisk invests 8.5 billion DKK in new Odense facility

    Despite Novo’s announcement that its growth abroad will be larger than in Denmark, the company announced this morning an 8.5 billion DKK investment for a new facility in Odense. This is the first time the company has established a new production site in Denmark this century.